A FPV Drone Guide
My journey (and a guide) to building and flying 5-inch FPV quadcopters.
So what is a FPV quadcopter and what does 5-inch mean?
A quadcopter is an unmanned aircraft, with 4 independent brushless motors allowing it to fly with 3 degrees of freedom (up/down, front/back, sideways, rotation) that is yaw, pitch and roll with of course, the throttle.
FPV, meaning First Person View, describes the flight setup, essentially the quadcopter has a front facing camera which transmits a live feed onto goggles or a monitor according to which you fly. They are not flow by line of sight but instead by seeing the live visuals from the quad, you are in the pilot’s seat. These 5-inch drones can weigh between 400 and 1100g and fall under the ‘mini’ category in most countries. Definitely check your local regulations before building and flying an FPV drone!
5-inch defines the size of the copter, it basically means that the quadcopter has propellers that are 5-inches in diameter, which will correspond to different frames. Quadcopters range from small Tiny Whoops all the way to massive 12 inch ones. 5-inch is also the most common size for FPV Quads and this will be focusing on them since they are great to fly and a wide variety of parts are available, but a lot of the same can be applied to 4 or 6 inch quadcopters.
The big benefit of these quadcopters is the hyper reparability. Since you build it, you know how everything interacts and in the event of a crash can quickly repair almost everything as the components are also individually swappable!
Freestyle vs. Racing
When it comes to small FPV quadcopters, there are essentially two main types, race quadcopters, which are extremely light, agile and often lack any secondary camera (such as a GoPro) and freestyle quadcopters, which are slightly more built-up, slightly slower (although they are still very very fast, up to 150 km/h and acrobatic) and can generally hold a camera such as a GoPro to capture cinematic video.
The way they are used is also different. Race Quads are used to race on courses through gates and obstacles. Freestyle quadcopters are not to race on courses, but instead fly in any area and capture some great footage with a fun flight experience.
Race Quads can be used for freestyle and vice versa, but they are designed for their specific purposes. Personally for most people, I would recommend a Freestyle design as it is quite versatile and will get amazing video unless of course you are sure you would want to go into drone racing, then a race drone will be the correct choice. Their main differences are between the frames and motors.
Note: In drone racing, there are two types of competitions, spec racing competitions and non-spec competitions, if you’re looking to get into drone racing, look at which one you want to participate in. In spec competitions, everyone uses the same drone, so you cannot build your own, whereas in non spec ones, everyone can use their own drone.
Quadcopter Basics
The basics of flight! Quadcopter’s flight are based on certain fundamental principles. Working like helicopters, quadcopter motors push air downwards to generate lift on the under side thus allowing flight.
Roll, pitch and yaw. Roll is when the quad moves sideways. Pitch is the forward and backward movement whilst yaw is the rotational movement of the quadcopter. Throttle is simply how fast the propellers are spinning, causing altitude changes.
The three different axis of movement are due to the differential speed at which the motors rotate. When two adjacent motors rotate faster, they generate more lift and due to Newton’s conservation of momentum law, the copter flies in the direction. When opposing motors rotate faster the quadcopter yaws due to the faster movement of opposite sides. Altitude is controlled simply by either increasing all 4 motors to gain altitude or decreasing to drop altitude.
In the quadcopter, opposite motors spin in the same direction. This balances the yaw force ensuring it is not continuously spinning and can maintain a stable hover.
Components in the Quad
A quadcopter is made up of 8 main components, the frame which is the structural chassis of the drone, the motors and props which spin, providing flight, the electronic speed controllers or ESC’s which regulate motor rotation, essentially behaving like drivers, the flight control board which acts as the brain of the quadcopter, the receiver that receives signals from the transmitter (remote control), the video transmitter (VTX) and FPV camera, the camera takes the live video which is transmitted to googles through the VTX and lastly but importantly, the batteries which are generally of the Lithium Polymer (LiPo) type and power your quad.
On the ground, you need 5 things generally, the transmitter through which you fly your quadcopter, the video goggles, from which you view the live video feed, batteries for the TX and goggles (generally included), a charger which should charge all your batteries and miscellaneous tools and parts which will include screw drivers, extra props, zip ties, Velcro, cutters etc.
Frame
The frame is the chassis of the quadcopter and all the components are placed on it. The frame is generally made of layered carbon fiber. Most frames are between 2 and 5 millimeters thick and have a few metal components (generally for the FPV camera). FPV frames weigh from 80 grams all the way up to 250 grams, although most will be in the 120–140g range. The frames are extremely strong and crash resistant and easy to repair in the event of a crash!
There are a many variations in quadcopter frames. There are lighter and smaller racing frames alongside slightly heavier freestyle ones. Frames also have a huge cost variation, from as little as $20 to as high as $350.
Frame kits will always come with the required screws, but ensure you have the screwdrivers, which are generally hex drivers. For a detailed break up of frame shapes click here.
Motors & Props
Motors and props are the most fundamental components in the quadcopter. Drones use brushless motors, making them less likely to wear out along with some technical difficulties, just remember brushless, that’s what matters. Generally for FPV quadcopters you have high kV motors between 1800 and 3500 kV.
So what is kV? kV is basically the rpm per volt. If a motor is 2000 kV and we have a 11.1 V battery, the motor will have a max rotation speed of 2000x11.1 which is 22,200 rpm. A motor size is based on the stator size (diameter and height). For example if a motor is sized as 2207, it means that the stator is 22mm in width and has 07mm in stator height. Motors may come in a Counter Clock Wise and Clock Wise pair or may be unspecified. All motors will have 3 leads, which is which doesn’t matter. These 3 will correspond to three pads on the ESC, which is the interface between the motor and flight controller. If the motor is not spinning in your intended direction, just flip any 2 of the 3 wires.
Most FPV Drones use 3 pronged propellers and I would definitely recommend the same. Most motors will generally provide specifications for ideal propellers. The three main factors with a propeller are the length, number of prongs and pitch of the propeller. The propellers will be 5-inch and 3-pronged. The pitch can slightly vary and higher pitch equals greater lift but also generate a greater load on the motor. Propellers also have two different variants and will always come in pairs. One will be for CCW motors whilst the second is for CW motors. Ensure to put the correct prop on the correct motor. When putting on propellers make sure there aren’t bends, scratches or cracks. Props must be in perfect condition, if not just replace it, don’t take the risk. It’s better to throw one prop then have your drone crash or fly uncontrollably because of it.
Pro Tip: Be careful while putting on propellers, putting them incorrectly can cause them to come off mid flight or cause unusual flight. It is tough to remember which prop goes onto which motor but just remember one thing, the higher edge must be spinning outward. This may seem counter-intuitive but it is the correct orientation. The blunt, higher edge must be outward, not the sharp, lower end.
When it comes to which motor to buy, there a large variety, but I would recommend something around 2100/2400 kV as that provides a good balance between speed and torque. Motors vary extremely greatly in cost from as little as $7 for a motor to as much as $100, you can look at brands such as T-Motor and iFlight. Propellers don’t have a great cost variation and two brands that I would recommend are Gemfan and HQProp.
Electronic Speed Controllers
The Electronic Speed Controllers or ESCs are the interface between the motors and the flight controller and essentially give the motor instructions on rotation speed. They are rated in Amps and with ESCs it is always good to be on the safer side with more than you require because having a ESC that has lower amperage than what the motor may draw at peak can cause both to burn out. I would recommend a ESC between 30 and 50 Amps based on the motor, again, most motors will have a recommended ESC.
ESCs come in two forms: 4-in-1 ESCs or stand alone ESCs. Personally, I would recommend 4-in-1 ESCs because I not only find them easier to use but also believe they are easier to setup and look far nicer on the quadcopter. A 4-in-1 ESC is basically a single PCB which has slots for each of the 4 motors to connect to and is mounted in the central part of the frame, below the FCB. Contrarily, stand alone ESCs are individually connected to each motor on the arm and then connected to the FCB and power. You have 4 different ESCs individually connected instead of a central PCB.
When you first get a ESC and connect it up, they tend to auto configure to an appropriate setting but incase you have any issues with ESCs, download the BLHeli Suite which as ESC configuration software. Even the flight software, Betaflight has certain ESC parameters which you can toggle, these are explained in the Betaflight video ahead.
Flight Control Board
The brain of the drone. The FCB controls everything and acts as the hub for all the components. Flight Control Boards are the central system controlling everything else, they have gyroscopes and accelerometers which generate orientation and positioning metrics. Additionally, the ESCs are also connected which then send the motors instructions. Your receiver is also connected to the FCB and so is the FPV system.
They come in various sizes but the common ones used on 5-inch drones are the 30x30mm or the 20x20mm ones. The CPU’s are rated as F1, F3, F4 and F7, and I have been using a 30x30mm F4 FCB as it provides great performance without being prohibitively expensive.
Spending $50-$100 on the FCB is advisable. The FCB will act as a hub for everything else and will be what you program different elements of the drone through and therefore isn’t the place to skimp. This is a fairly basic explanation of Flight Controllers without going into much detail about the various ports and connections. For a extremely detailed look at flight controllers you can click here. I will also be looking to write follow up articles so do please reach out with any requests or questions!
RX and TX
If you are planning on using the DJI FPV System, you don’t need to consider this as it has a RX and TX included.
The RX and TX are the receiver and transmitter respectively. They are the communication link which almost instantaneously allow your actions on the controller’s joysticks be reflected by the flight of your drone. The TX is the handheld controller which will have two joysticks and any number of additional buttons or switches. The RX is a small circuit board with antennae which is connected to the FCB on the drone. With almost all controllers, you can connect multiple RX’s, therefore you generally have only one transmitter which connects to all your different drones.
The main reputable controller brands are FrSky, Futaba, Spectrum and Team Blacksheep. Transmitter’s and receivers are mainly categorized by the different number of channels, all the way from 5 up to 21. A channel is basically any one switch or joystick command a TX can send. For example throttle is one channel, so is yaw, pitch and roll. After this different switches can occupy channels which can have certain functionality, such as a LED switch which can turn lights on the drone on and off or a beeper switch which makes the drone beep when lost. The receiver should also be able to accept all the different channels that you are transmitting, otherwise it won’t receive the command at all!
Transmitters start as low as $30 but I would recommend spending $100-$200 for a good, long lasting one. Each receiver can set you back between $10 and $70. If I were to recommend one TX and RX other than DJI, it would be the TBS Tango 2 and TBS Tracer. The Tango is gamepad style controller at $160 with 5/6 extra switches and a small display.
The Tracer is a antenna module pair at $130 which gives you a transmission module which can connect to the Tango 2 along with 3 receivers. It is great a product with 25+km of range and extremely low latency (250 Hz). It is economical compared to the higher end $500 or $700 transmitters from FrSky or Futaba. Additionally, it is easy to use and extremely compact.
But be warned, these are extremely popular and often backordered with a months long waiting time.
The TX will be what you hold and input and I recommend flying on Mode 2 (most popular globally) and here is a diagram of the controls!
Generally with the RX and TX, batteries come included along with a charger.
Battery
Batteries are crucial to FPV, from getting a correct balance of weight to size whilst a high enough voltage and amperage delivery. Drones use batteries with a lithium polymer chemistry also known as LiPo Batteries, as these provide great energy density and are lightweight.
Looking at LiPo batteries, they are fairly simple to understand and don’t have a large cost variation. I use Tattu LiPo batteries and consider them extremely reliant and good quality. One battery can set you back between $30 and $50 and tend to give between 3 and 9 minutes of flight time, based on the intensity of flight.
Now to understand the different numbers of a LiPo battery! There are 3 numbers which matter.
The large number, 25000 in this case is the capacity of the battery in milliamp hours. This defines the total energy, larger this number the more energy stored when charged. Next is the 6 cells, which is voltage the battery can provide and if you remember from motors, the greater the voltage the faster the motor spins. Each cell has a standard voltage of 3.8 V and therefore 6 cell has 6x3.8 which is 22.8 V. For FPV drones you can use either a 4-cell or 6-cell with far faster performance on the 6-cell, but it may be too much for beginners and often comes with higher costs. Most components are suited to 4s batteries (4 cell can be said as 4s) but for 6s one must check otherwise the components will short. The third and final number is 10C above this is the peak amperage a battery can provide, meaning for bursts of 10 seconds it can provide 25x10 = 250 Amps (the 25 is the 25000 milliamps/1000) whilst otherwise providing a stable 25 Amps. FPV drones have high C batteries, generally greater than 80C.
This battery is far larger than any we will use. I use a 2100 mAh 4s 100C battery which costs $35. Noting the short flight time, I have 3 batteries.
Understanding voltage is also important. Batteries have a stable low voltage of 3.8 or 3.7 V and mustn’t be discharged beyond this. They reach a max of 4.3 or 4.4 V. A simple way to prevent battery damage is to land at 3.9 V. You must also rest your batteries between charging for 15 or 20 minutes instead of continuous charge and discharge cycles. All LiPo Chargers come with a storage mode which will put 25% of charge into the batteries preventing them from decaying or losing capacity over long periods without use.
Two small other considerations with these batteries is wear and connector type. I recommend the XT-60 connector, which is the industry standard. You must have the corresponding connector on your drone otherwise you won’t be able to connect. LiPo batteries can fly between 50 and 150 cycles but be careful for any signs of puffing or physical wear. If it is torn or puffed up, dispose of it immediately. Also remember, every time you use the battery, the capacity will decrease slightly. Be careful and treat your batteries well! Charge them in a shaded environment, do not over discharge them and when not in use, keep them in storage mode.
While mounting ensure batteries are secure and can’t move about! They should be secured with Velcro pads or a battery pad but never too tight to prevent the battery getting damaged. Also remember they are a fire risk and ideally charge them outdoors and under observation and always remember to carry then around in LiPo pouches which are cheap and often complimentary with batteries.
The charger is extremely easy to use. Make sure to buy a charger which can handle the size of your batteries and if needed, one that can charge multiple batteries at the same time. When charging you connect the main XT-60 and the second lead, known as the balance connector which ensures each cell charges uniformly. Then select the correct numbers and begin charging or storage. I always recommend Balance Charging unless you are in a hurry in which case you can use Fast Charging.
Remember, batteries take time to charge, around 30 to 40 minutes each!
Tools and Add-Ons
The tools and add-on’s are small things which can make you FPV journey more enjoyable. These include LiPo bags, wrenches, propeller carry bags, motor skids or even GoPro mounts and a portable soldering iron. I’ve listed below things which aren’t necessary but will definitely set you up better!
I won’t be adding the links for these but if you were to search them up on Google or any of the FPV websites I recommend down below, you are sure to find them.
Adhesive Battery Pad, GoPro Hero 15 degree Mount, LED Drone Skids, SEQURE Soldering Iron, Ethix Prop Pouch, Ethix Wrench Tool, Took Kit RC M4Q Charger, Tango 2 and HDO Goggles Carry Case, 2mm LED Strips for Arms, Lumenier Velcro Straps, 3mm Prop Lock Nuts, LiPo Safe Bag, Needle Nose Pliers, Digital Battery Checker and FPV Backpack.
The FPV System
FPV is First Person View which gives you feeling of flying the drone as if you are in the pilot’s seat. It is an extremely low latency system which almost instantly transmits live video from the drone, down to goggles which you are wearing. FPV Systems have 3 components, the camera, video transmitter and goggles (which have receivers built in).
With a digital FPV system, all these products in a single package and are bound with an easier setup as there is no large variety of parts.
On the other hand, with analog, there are different types of video transmitters (VTX), cameras and goggles.
Goggles
The goggles are the core of the FPV system. It is what you wear and watch the live feed on. They are arguably the most important part.
If you decide to go for the digital one, the DJI goggles are your only choice, there is also Fat Shark Shark Byte, but I do not recommend it.
Looking at the analog side, there any many different types of goggles across a large price range. The main differences will be the form factor, screen resolution, FOV and refresh rate. There are box goggles and compact goggles. The leading brand in the space is Fat Shark and I would recommend in investing in a good pair of compact goggles if you want to pursue FPV long term. Otherwise you can look at cheaper box goggles from brands like Eachine. Compact goggles tend to have far better screens, a smaller form factor and wider aspect ratio. Box goggles will be cheaper with a wider field of view. Another consideration in the cost is that more expensive goggles will come with better antenna’s which can improve video quality and range. Almost all goggles come with an included battery and charger.
Antenna’s on most goggles can be upgraded to higher quality and better reception ones (such as Rapid Fire) but to begin with there is no need.
VTX
The VTX is the transmitter which receives the feed from the camera and sends it to your goggles via radio link. It is an extremely small and compact circuit board which can be mounted anywhere as long the it’s antennae are unobstructed and protrude outward. You should be careful to check that neither the props or the undercarriage of the drones contact the antenna as this can cause minute damage which can impact the video feed. The only consideration with the VTX is getting one which operates at the same frequency that your goggles are at. The common ones are 1.2, 2.4 and 5.8 GHz. Smaller variations can be made to the channel bands on the VTX but ensuring the primary frequency is compatible with your goggles is essential.
With a digital system, you use the DJI Air Unit or the Caddx Vista.
Camera
The camera is an extremely small, purpose-oriented device which is mounted at the front of the drone and connected to the VTX which transmits the live footage. There are many different cameras but not a significant difference between them. I use a Foxeer Mini Camera and recommend either buying a Foxeer or RunCam camera. You shouldn’t need to spend more than $40 on your camera and can expect similar performance across the spectrum of analog cameras. For digital there are limited options, either the DJI camera or even Foxeer, but there are 1 or 2 models with all rewarding good performance.
Digital vs. Analog
There are two types of FPV Systems, one working on analog frequencies whilst the other is completely digital. Digital systems have evolved over the last 3 years with DJI introducing the first and Fat Shark following suit. Still, the Fat Shark system lags behind DJI and if you are sure about going the digital route, I would definitely go for DJI. Digital comes with the benefits of far superior video quality in the goggles, simpler electronic setup and better range. The singular drawback in my view is the cost and restrictiveness, the digital system will set you back a $1000 dollars whereas analog can be as little as $400. Secondly, you will need to use the DJI controller and cannot use third party controllers or camera units. But if you are willing to spend more money and are firmly interested in pursuing FPV, then go for digital as it is definitely where FPV is heading in coming years.
Personally, I used analog in the beginning and really disliked the video quality but was still able to fly and learn well. On the other hand, I have only experienced digital in one instance but am definitely planning on pivoting to digital systems. It comes down to personal preference, if you have a friend who is into FPV, maybe try his systems and see what you feel, ultimately it is a question of what you enjoy! For a technical understanding of system differences, take a look at this video by Mr Steele.
What Parts to Buy?
Your build can cost anywhere from $500 to $2500 so I’m giving links for the DJI and analog FPV systems along with 3 different drones: a low cost, medium cost and high cost. Also remember that you will needs spares, especially for things like batteries, propellers maybe even buy 2 extra motors. For props, given their low cost I recommend buying at least 3 sets of 4 which is 12 and also buying at least 2 if not 3 batteries.
Another question is where to buy? You can look at local hobby shops or local websites, personally I use getfpv.com for most parts which ships globally along with banggood.com for some parts.
If you go ahead and buy the DJI System, you can even buy their recommended parts, but it isn’t restricted to that, the DJI system can be put on any FPV drone.
Analog FPV: Fat Shark Attitude V6 or Eachine EV800D
TX and RX: Tango 2 and TBS Tracer
Freestyle Drones: Low Cost Drone or Medium Cost Drone or High Cost Drone
Tattu 4s LiPo, Tool Kit RC Charger, FPV Backpack, Soldering Iron, Ethix Prop Tool and Bag, Battery Checker
The Build
Once you have got all your parts, it is time to build! The build is fairly simple but still precise, and you will need a few basic skills and tools to complete it. It is unlikely that parts come with build instructions but once you understand how it all works, it is fairly simple. I will be breaking it down into steps and also telling you the basic skills you should practice beforehand along with the tools it requires.
Tools: Soldering Iron, Wire Cutters, Snipper, Pliers, Hot Glue Gun, Double Sided Tape, Electrical Tape, Screwdrivers, Exacto Knife and Workstation Mat
Skills: Intricate Soldering Skills and General Screwing, Bolting, Gluing and Taping
How do you go about it?
Step 1: Organize all the parts and download any relevant software required on computer.
Step 2: Begin by constructing the frame according to given instructions, never use any thread locker in screws but ensure they are tightly fitted.
Step 3: Mount each of the motors on the arm with the correct length screw (generally included) whilst making sure the three motor wires come towards the body.
Step 4: Mount the 4-in-1 ESC or each individual ESC, connecting the three motor wires. Then connect the battery XT-60 plug at the end where you want to mount the battery. Battery should be mounted either above or below.
Step 5: Using an included wire or by soldering individual connections, connect the ESC to corresponding tabs on the FCB (generally 7 or 8 connections)
Step 6: Mount the FPV camera to the front and connect to 5V, ground and UART on the FCB. A UART is basically a port where you can connect a peripheral.
Step 7: Mount the FCB and screw it in, connect the VTX for video transmission to 7V, ground and relevant other connections. Before making connections make sure to check out what the FCB says, most FCB’s come with a wiring diagram.
Step 8: Connect the RX to 5V, ground and RX, and mount both the RX and VTX in positions where the antenna can protrude without getting damaged. Seal any loose joints with hot glue. Ensure that no solder joints are fused or cold which can cause a short.
Step 9: Close up the quadcopter top plate and connect to computer with USB, then follow the programming instructions given below. Bind with your transmitter and put props after software has been checked and you have tried all the different motors. You are ready to fly! Here is a video to help you through any hiccups.
Software
Software is key in enabling flight of your quadcopter. Primarily you will use only one software to program/control the various features of the drone. There are many such as Betaflight, Cleanflight and LibrePilot. I strongly urge you to use Betaflight as it the most well documented and widely used software. It will also be easy to find answers to problems you may have and Betaflight is also receiving constant updates unlike software such as LibrePilot which are stagnant.
To use Betaflight is simply a function of downloading the software, connecting your drone and following the steps. I used the below video to get my first drone flying and it worked brilliantly! As you become well versed with it, adding more complexity and functions can also be done through Betaflight such as PID Tuning and different flight modes. There any many videos and articles for the same and I also plan on covering it in future articles.
PID tuning is tiny modifications to flight characteristics one can make to get a more responsive, smooth and comfortable flying experience. Rates are the exponential increase in different movements. For example having high rates would mean that at full joystick deflection, the quad moves far faster than at 90%, it is exponential increase. Flight modes are different ways in which you can fly. FPV is always in acro mode meaning that the drone does not self level or self correct, this allows for flips, loops and other amazing stunts!
BLHeli is the ESC configurator one can use. It doesn’t come in use often but I believe it is best to have it as it can be a helpful trouble shooting tool and is the best in its class. Click here for a video explaining BLHeli.
Your First Flight
It’s time for your first flight! Remember to extensively check that everything is working without putting props on. Check the switches and each joystick and then once you ready, props on! Stay and good distance away from the drone and ensure there aren’t people near it. Then just begin, on your first flight try to hover. As you get through more packs you’ll keep trying new things, if you crash don’t worry, these drones are pretty sturdy! Don’t be afraid of crashing and fly freely!
Here’s a video of my 7th flight! (Didn’t have one of my first! Oops!)
Great Resources and Personal Note
Personally I feel this is an extremely important section, through my FPV journey I often lacked answers and was confused. I discovered a few amazing resources which helped me and will definitely help you!
YouTube is a great place for info about FPV and the channels of Joshua Bardwell, Le Drib and UAVfutures helped me out.
When it came to Googling questions I used oscarliang.com, getfpv.com and various different Reddit forums. If you buy the DJI System, dji.com has loads of information, trouble shooting tips and discussion forums!
To purchase parts I alternate between getfpv.com (they have a large selection of authentic parts) and banggood.com (cheaper Chinese parts not recommended for main components, it’s fine for small things)
Now you may be wondering why should I build one when DJI has come out with a FPV drone? My simple answer would be when you build something, you enjoy the process, you learn and ultimately get more engrossed in it. Additionally, the DJI FPV drone is expensive at $1300. I would definitely recommend the DJI FPV System but as for the drone, I still love building and flying them. And also, the hyper reparability, you built it so you know what to do in even the gnarliest of crashes. Everything is replaceable and a lot of fun!
Once you decide to go down the path and build your own FPV drone, it will open up a whole new world and keep you extremely excited and eager. In waiting for your parts to arrive, you can start flying using a simulator ( I would recommend the DRL Sim or Liftoff) on your computer using any controller, even a console one! This will give you sense of control and prepare you for real flight! FPV will be a journey of fixing and flying and you will most definitely crash in your flights causing tiny issues which may stump you. It can get irritating but I recommend rebooting the system or simply Googling your problems and you will find a host of solutions. Also makes sure to look at manufacturer documentation, it is very detailed and can get your through most problems! Also remember to fly where it is permitted and not near people for your first few flights!
I have personally loved my journey into FPV and will definitely be continuing. I wrote this because when I started, I was quite confused at what steps to take and what stuff to buy. I hope this helps you start your journey into the amazing world of FPV that is truly unforgettable. Happy flying!
“I also want to just give a disclaimer that I, by no means am an expert in the field and am simply sharing my experience of the past years of building and flying FPV drones.”
